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Why is My Hydrangea Not Blooming?
Mariana DiVita
Why is My Hydrangea Not Blooming?

Why is My Hydrangea Not Blooming?

Have you ever driven by an old farm house and seen a bigleaf hydrangea blooming beautifully with gorgeous blue or pink mopheads and wondered why the one in your yard is green and flowerless? 

This seems to be a common question about one of our favorite hydrangeas - Hydrangea macrophylla, bigleaf hydrangea.

There are several reasons your hydrangea may not bloom and I'll explain them now.


1) Late Spring Freezes

The first reason is out of your control unless you have an “in” with Mother Nature. Here in Georgia, a late spring freeze can ruin our hydrangea season in a hurry.  

Spring temperatures in the South can get a little crazy. One day it's 35 degrees and the next it's 70 degrees. If we get too many warm days in a row, the hydrangeas start to leaf out or “break bud” and then Old Man Winter hits us with one more hard freeze. This can damage the bud tips and result in few, if any, viable flowers this year.  

The good news is the new remontant (fancy word for re-blooming) varieties will bloom on old and new wood so you may have a flush of flowers later in the season. 

Subvert Old Man Winter: Consider a cold hardy hydrangea if you live in zone 6 or colder. We have Hydrangea arborescensHydrangea paniculata, and Hydrangea serrata cultivars in our Hydrangea Collection. Please read about them and consider them for your garden. They do better in cold!


2) Timing of Pruning

The next question is “Did you prune your hydrangeas and if so when?” 

I admit our beloved bigleaf hydrangea is not the most attractive plant without its leaves.  Did your well meaning spouse or landscaper decide to cut the “dead sticks” back this winter?

If you pruned your hydrangea after August 1 last year, you may have cut off this year's flower buds. After August 1 you risk pruning the flower buds that have formed for next spring.

Hydrangeas don't need annual pruning. The only reason to prune is to remove the dead stems and tips and remove crowded stems. Sometimes a stray long branch or two need to be pruned to reshape the plant. I know there are people who prune to reduce size. I believe its important to make sure there is sufficient room for the full size hydrangea when it is originally planted but sometimes you inherit what someone else planted. If your hydrangea is oversized for its space, consider moving it this fall. You will need to cut it back before August 1 and then move it once the weather cools.

This tip applies to Hydrangea quercifolia (oakleaf hydranga) and Hydrangea serrata (mountain hydrangea) as well because they also bloom on new wood.




3) Too Much Fertilizer

Another reason that you may have a very lush green plant and no flowers is over fertilizing. 

In this case, more is not always better. That does seem counter intuitive, but if you over fertilize you can have lush foliage and no flowers. 

All hydrangeas like a slow release, balanced fertilizer (example: 10-10-10) two or three times a year in March, May, and July. You do not want to fertilize after August 1st. The amount of fertilizer varies with the plant size so read label directions. It is better to under fertilize than over fertilize.


4) Not Enough Sunlight

Lastly, the lack of blooms may be due to the amount of sun your plants are getting. 

In my perfect garden world I would have all morning sun with an eastern exposure and protection from the hot afternoon sun! Many plants here in the South would find this to be a perfect planting site. Hydrangeas are no different. If your hydrangeas are in heavy shade, there may be few or no flowers.

In my own yard, the canopy of the mature trees over one of my hydrangea beds has blocked a lot of sunlight and my hydrangeas don't have many flowers. My hydrangeas on the east side of the house that get the morning sun until noon are blooming beautifully. So what will I do with my shady bed of flowerless hydrangeas? I will be moving these hydrangeas to a spot with more morning sunlight and converting this bed to ferns, Japanese maples, and hostas. A gardener's work is never done!

Sunlight issues apply to Hydrangea paniculata (panicle hydrangea), Hydrangea quercifolia (oakleaf hydranga), and Hydrangea serrata (mountain hydrangea) as well.


I hope these tips help solve your hydrangea flower mystery and may your hydrangea blooms be abundant next year!

-Mariana DiVita

For this question about Hydrangea macrophylla (commonly called bigleaf or French hydrangea), we asked the expert Mariana DiVita to help us understand the flowering whims of this hydrangea species.



Hi Mary Ruth, No need to start over, unless you’re just good and ready to, which is an adequate reason, I think! However, with patience, they will rebloom again. It may be a sequence of events that has prevented them from reblooming these past years – first the hard pruning, then the next year it could have been frost that killed back the flowers. Also, if they are in too much shade, flowering will be diminished or non-existent. They need some sun to flower – either morning sun or dappled sun. I’d give them another year or two to flower again, if you can wait.

Mary Ruth
If I pruned my hydrangeas back too far and they haven’t bloomed for 2 years, should I start over?

Hillary Thompson

Hi Nicole,

Yours is a unique situation. First of all, well done for growing blooming macrophyllas in NH!!

Yes, in your cold climate August 1st is both too early and too late – not only would you be cutting off your flowers, but your autumn arrives a lot earlier than it does here in Georgia so opportunity for regrowth is shorter.

Since you are growing macrophyllas at the upper end of their range, I have several suggestions for you to weigh.

1) Deadhead the flowers only – deadheading is simply removing flowers. Let them antique until they brown or at any point that you stop enjoying their looks. We like the brown, dried flowers, so we deadhead in late winter, just before spring growth ensues. Deadheading can be done at any time of year because you are not pruning deep into the shrub – you’re simply snipping off the flower at the base and are unlikely to prune off next year’s flowers. We have another blog post that explains how to deadhead.

2) Remove deadwood in spring – reach into the shrub and clip off those dead branches at their bases. We have another blog post that shows you how to do this while avoiding pruning living stems. Removing deadwood only will help reduce the size of the shrub.

3) Sacrifice that year’s flowers – if your macs are simply too big for the space their planted in, you can prune into the shrub as deeply as you need to. I’d do this in early spring, giving your shrubs time to regrow and flower the next year. However, if you have remontant/rebooming types, you’ll likely still your flowers, but later in summer than you do now.

4) Sacrifice some of the flowers – maybe the whole plant doesn’t need pruning? Maybe prune out just the largest branches or only the ones that are rubbing against a building?

I hope this helps! Please write again if you have any further questions.


Nicole Moore

I live in NH and my macrophylla bloom in mid to late July into August so when would I prune? August 1st is too early! Thanks!


Hi Joey,

This is Hillary (the wife half of the CEP shop owners) replying to you now. Mariana will be writing another blog post for us this summer, we’re happy to say!

Yes, since oak leaf hydrangeas also flower on old wood (also called last year’s wood), prune according to the same time frame.

Please comment again if you have any more questions! I’m sorry for my late reply, we went to Cape Cod for their Hydrangea Festival. :)


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