
Itea virginica 'Henry's Garnet' (Virginia sweetspire)
Henry's Garnet Virginia sweetspire is a favored "naturalistic" shrubs because it has multi-season interest and wears well in innumerable garden styles.
In spring, the 6" long, white pendulous flowers dangle all over the shrub like a designer who loves tassels and fringe. Then it looks well-dressed all summer with arching branches and green leaves; wrapping it up with outstanding red-turning-burgundy attire in the autumn.
Have you noticed that the winter-bare, arching, red/burgundy-colored stems add winter interest? Use that feature to advantage.
At my old house in town, I planted Henry's Garnet right next to an unsightly, yellow-painted curb - this sweetspire colonized the area and the red winter stems popped out against that yellow, the pine-straw, and the dwarf evergreen backdrop. (I did add loads of compost to that curb-side bed, so this woodland/waterway native was, indeed, very happy with the soil.)
Regarding gardens uses, its fits in as well in:
- a naturalistic shrub/woods setting;
- or along a body of water;
- or dotted along a dry creek bed;
- as it does when colonizing a modern suburban landscape;
- or a grand sweeping estate yard;
- as it fit in colonizing and beautifying my ugly curbside downtown. Which is to say, very well.
We do like a worthy awards ceremony, so here's a badge on Henry's Garnet chest: it received a Gold Medal from the Pennsylvania Horticulture Society.
The newest hotness is Itea virginica Love Child, because it's a foot shorter than Henry's Garnet. LC has grown very well for us in containers and we have it planted out in . . . where else but the Itea garden (side-by-side with several types, that are all doing great because Itea is great).
- preference is for moist soils so this is a great plant for low spots, ditches, next to ornamental ponds and bogs, downspouts, and for stabilizing runoff areas
- a native colonizer that will gently fill in an area
- Spring: green
- Summer: medium green
- Fall: red, burgundy
Run a soil test and to determine if the soil is too alkaline (high pH). Chlorosis develops in alkaline soils. Correct the pH using an acidifying product from your local garden center. Fertilize it at the same time with a balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10-10. This problem can be corrected, but you may want to run a soil test and act accordingly (fertilize) for a few years to keep on top of it. Adding compost will also bring down the pH and the roots will like the additional compost anyway.