I used to think flowers were the only honest way to bring color into a room. Then I brought home a small rex begonia whose leaves were silver at the center, plum around the edges, and curled into dark little spirals where the veins met. It sat on a plain wooden table and made everything around it look more considered. The plant did not need to bloom. It did not need a decorative cachepot or a collection of carefully arranged objects beside it. Those strange, metallic leaves were enough. That was when I began paying closer attention to foliage—not simply whether a plant was green, but how many colors, textures, and changes one leaf could hold.
Colorful houseplants can be easy, demanding, short-lived, surprisingly durable, or all four at different times of the year. I have learned not to take a greenhouse-perfect plant home and assume it will continue looking the same beside my sofa. Light changes the color. Dry winter air roughens edges. Some plants sulk after a move, while others root so readily that I can rebuild the whole pot from cuttings. I have included all of those temperaments here because the best plant is not necessarily the most forgiving one. It is the plant whose habits make sense in the room where I intend to grow it.
1. Croton
A croton does not add a polite hint of color. It arrives with yellow veins, orange patches, red margins, dark green backgrounds, and mature leaves that can deepen nearly to burgundy. One good-sized ‘Petra’ croton can hold as much autumn color as a whole outdoor border. I like the broad-leaved cultivars when I want the plant to feel substantial, but the narrow, twisting leaves of ‘Mammy’ have a looser character. They bend and curl in different directions, so the plant looks lively even when nothing in the room is moving.
I would not buy a croton for a dark corner and hope for the best. It may hang on there, but the new foliage will usually be greener and less memorable. Mine earns the brightest position I can give it without pressing its leaves against hot glass. I also expect some protest after moving it. Crotons are notorious for dropping leaves when temperature, humidity, and light change abruptly. That does not always mean the plant is dying. I keep it warm, check the soil rather than watering from panic, and wait for it to settle. Once it trusts the position, it becomes steadier. The sap can irritate skin, and I keep the plant away from pets that might chew it.
2. ‘Red Siam’ Chinese Evergreen
When someone tells me they want colorful foliage but does not want to organize the household around a plant, I often suggest ‘Red Siam.’ Its broad green leaves are edged and marked with rosy red, and the central stems add more warmth. The plant grows into a full clump rather than sending vines across the furniture. It looks finished in a plain pot and can stand on the floor, a low table, or a wide dresser without needing a support.
Chinese evergreen is frequently advertised as a low-light plant, and that description has caused plenty of disappointing plants. It can tolerate a dimmer position, but the red markings hold better and new growth stays tighter in decent filtered light. Mine sits near an east window, not across the room from it. I let the top of the mix dry before watering, particularly during winter, when the plant uses moisture slowly. Cold, wet soil is far more dangerous than missing a watering day. It is an easygoing plant, but not an edible one; the leaves contain irritating calcium oxalate crystals, so I place it out of reach of animals and children.
3. ‘Siam Aurora’ Chinese Evergreen
‘Siam Aurora’ is closely related in appearance to other red Chinese evergreens, yet I find its long, tapered leaves give it a different presence. The red travels around the leaf margins like a fine painted outline instead of covering large sections of the blade. Seen from several feet away, that narrow border makes the whole plant look warmer without turning it into a pink centerpiece. It is one of the few colorful foliage plants I can use in a room that already contains patterned rugs or upholstery.
The plant appreciates bright indirect light, but it does not make me pay for one cloudy week with a row of crisp leaves. I turn the pot occasionally because the stems naturally lean toward the brightest side. Otherwise, the clump can become lopsided without anyone noticing until it nearly tips. I water thoroughly, let the excess drain, and wait until the top layer dries again. When the room is cooler and darker, that interval becomes longer. A saucer that stays full of water is the quickest way to turn a dependable plant into a failing one. I also wipe the broad leaves from time to time; red edges look surprisingly dull beneath a film of household dust.
4. Rex Begonia
Rex begonias are the plants most likely to make me break my own rule about impulse purchases. The leaves can be silver, black, burgundy, rose, green, or pewter, often combined in spirals and rings that look almost mineral. Some are velvety; others are puckered, hairy, or sharply toothed. A cultivar such as ‘Escargot’ curls its markings inward like a snail shell, while others resemble stained glass or hammered metal. They are compact enough to sit close to eye level, where all that detail can actually be enjoyed.
I have killed rex begonias by being too attentive. Their roots are finer and shallower than the leaves suggest, and they do not appreciate a heavy mix that remains soaked. Now I use an airy potting medium and water when the surface has begun to dry, not simply because the leaves look dramatic and important. Bright filtered light keeps the markings clear. Strong sun burns them, especially where silver tissue is thin. I also keep the leaves away from cold window glass. An older plant may become awkward no matter how carefully it is grown; when that happens, I use a healthy leaf to propagate a fresh plant rather than spending months trying to make the original symmetrical again.
5. Caladium
A caladium leaf can look as though it has light behind it. The foliage is thin and heart-shaped, with veins and patches in white, red, rose, green, and pink. Some cultivars are mostly pale, with only a narrow green margin. Others are nearly scarlet and seem to glow when morning light passes through them. I use caladiums when I want a plant to feel fresh and summery. They are particularly good on a stand where the leaves can spread without being pushed against a wall.
The mistake I made with my first caladium was assuming dormancy meant failure. The plant began yellowing as the season changed, and I responded with more water. That left me with a wet pot and a rotting tuber. Caladiums grow from tubers and commonly rest when days shorten or conditions cool. Once the foliage begins its natural decline, I reduce watering and allow the plant to sleep. Warmth and stronger light can bring it back into growth later. While it is active, I keep the soil lightly moist and the plant away from drafts. The leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals, so despite their delicate appearance, they belong somewhere pets cannot sample them.
6. Coleus
Coleus gives me an almost unreasonable amount of color for a plant that roots in a glass of water. Lime, copper, chocolate, cream, magenta, pink, and red all appear in the group, sometimes on the same leaf. The foliage may be scalloped, ruffled, narrow, deeply cut, or broad enough to cover my palm. I usually grow coleus outdoors through summer, then take cuttings from the best plants before the first cold night. Those cuttings are cleaner, smaller, and easier to manage indoors than the large garden plants.
Winter is where coleus reveals whether I have given it enough light. In a dim position, the stems stretch between leaves and lean toward the window until the plant looks tired. I put mine close to bright glass or beneath a grow light and pinch the tips before they become long. Every pinch produces side shoots, which is how I keep the plant bushy. I also remove flower spikes unless I specifically want to see them. Coleus drinks more readily than thick-leaved plants, but I still do not leave its roots in standing water. If growth becomes pale, webbed, or dusty, I turn over the leaves and look for spider mites before adding fertilizer.
7. Prayer Plant
The prayer plant is colorful in a way that feels carefully drawn rather than splashed. On the red-veined form, fine crimson lines branch from the center of each oval leaf. Dark green patches sit against a lighter background, and the underside carries a muted purple tone. ‘Kerchoveana’ has paired brown-green markings that are sometimes called rabbit tracks. The leaves spread during the day and often rise in the evening, so the plant never looks exactly the same from breakfast to bedtime.
Mine grows best in a broad pot because maranta creeps sideways instead of building a tall crown. I keep it in bright but softened light; direct afternoon sun can bleach the pattern and leave dry scars. The potting mix should not turn completely dry, although I have learned that “likes moisture” does not mean “likes mud.” When brown edges appear, I look at several things: dry air, hard water, fertilizer residue, cold drafts, and inconsistent moisture. Pouring in extra water without checking the roots can make matters worse. A small amount of edge damage is common in an ordinary home, and I no longer treat one imperfect leaf as an emergency.
8. Rose-Painted Calathea
A rose-painted calathea is difficult to walk past. ‘Dottie’ carries vivid pink rings over leaves so dark they appear almost black. ‘Medallion’ is broader and cooler, with silver-green patterning above and deep burgundy beneath. Each leaf stands on its own slender stem, which allows the plant to shift and rearrange itself through the day. Even when the upper pattern is subdued, the purple undersides show whenever a leaf tilts.
This is not the plant I hand to someone whose house becomes hot and dry every winter. Calatheas appreciate steady warmth, filtered light, gentle moisture, and air that is not being stripped dry by a heater. Mine does much better near a humidifier than it ever did on a pebble tray. I use filtered or rainwater when the tap water leaves mineral deposits, and I never allow the pot to stand in runoff. The plant is particular, but at least it is honest. Curled leaves, faded patches, and rapidly browning margins tell me that something has changed. I read those signs before reaching for another product or moving it to a completely different room.
9. ‘Triostar’ Stromanthe
‘Triostar’ stromanthe may be my favorite plant to see from across a room. Its long leaves are streaked with cream, several greens, and soft pink. Turn one over and the underside is a rich raspberry red. New leaves emerge rolled into narrow spears, showing mostly burgundy before slowly opening. On a healthy plant, no two leaves carry the same balance of markings, which keeps a full clump from looking repetitive.
It shares some preferences with calathea, although I find a settled stromanthe can be surprisingly durable. Bright filtered light is the narrow path between washed-out color and scorched cream sections. I keep the mix evenly but not constantly wet and use a pot that drains without hesitation. This is also one plant I do not place directly beside a door; cold gusts leave marks that no amount of humidity will repair. A brown tip here or there does not trouble me. If every new leaf emerges damaged, however, I investigate the roots, water quality, temperature, and spider mites rather than merely trimming the evidence away.
10. Nerve Plant
Fittonia is a small plant, but its leaves look as though they contain an entire street map. Fine white, rose, or red veins branch through the green surface, making even a three-inch pot visually useful. I like it near the front of a larger group, where tall plants do not hide it. It is also one of the best plants for a terrarium because the contained humidity suits its thin leaves and low, spreading habit.
Most people who grow fittonia eventually witness the famous collapse. The stems fall flat, the leaves hang against the soil, and the plant looks finished. A drink often restores it, but I try not to make that performance part of the routine. Repeated wilting stresses the roots and damages older leaves. I check the mix before it becomes dry all the way through. In a terrarium, I water far less because the moisture cycles inside the glass. Fittonia does not need blazing light, but it does need enough brightness to remain dense. Hot sun can cook it quickly, especially behind closed glass.
11. Tradescantia Zebrina
Tradescantia zebrina
is the plant I grow when I want immediate silver and purple without waiting two years for a specimen to fill out. Its pointed leaves carry metallic bands over green or violet, and the undersides are deep purple. The stems spill freely from a shelf or hanging pot, catching the light at different angles. In a bright position, the silver bands are clean and the spaces between leaves remain short.
A tradescantia eventually becomes bare near the center of its pot. I used to see that as a maintenance problem; now I see it as a reminder to take cuttings. I snip several healthy tips, remove the lowest leaves, and press the stems back into fresh mix. They root so readily that the renewed pot often looks better within a month. Strong filtered light keeps the color vivid. A gloomy shelf produces long greenish stems, no matter how attractive the plant looked at the nursery. The sap may irritate skin, and repeated contact can also be troublesome for pets, so I hang it where trailing stems cannot become a toy.
12. Purple Passion Plant
Purple passion plant is not truly purple in the way an oxalis leaf is purple. The leaf itself is green, but thousands of fine violet hairs cover the surface and stems. When sunlight strikes from the side, the whole plant appears to glow. I keep it at eye level because the effect is easy to miss when the pot is viewed only from above. Young plants stand upright, while older stems begin to wander and spill.
I pinch those stems before they become awkward. The cuttings root easily, so I can keep a younger plant going when the original starts looking woody. Bright indirect light strengthens the purple effect; poor light reveals far more green and leaves long gaps between growth points. The plant sometimes produces small orange flowers. They are interesting, but their scent can be unpleasant, and I usually remove the buds. I water after the surface begins to dry and try not to splash the hairy foliage late in the day. Those velvet leaves are beautiful, but they are not improved by sitting wet in cool air.
13. Ti Plant
A ti plant gives me the height of a dracaena with far stronger color. Its long leaves emerge around upright woody stems in burgundy, bronze, pink, red, and green. Some cultivars are broad and dark; others carry thin raspberry stripes along their edges. The plant looks particularly good against a pale wall, where its narrow silhouette and warm foliage can be seen clearly.
Ti plants are sensitive to the sort of small household problems that do not bother a pothos. Hard water and salt buildup can contribute to brown tips. Cold drafts may damage whole leaves. In weak light, the pink and red fade toward green, yet sudden hard sun can burn the paler sections. I keep mine in a warm room with bright softened light and let the upper layer of mix dry before watering. If the tap water repeatedly marks the foliage, I change the water rather than cutting the tips every month and pretending the problem has been solved. The plant is not safe for pets, so I do not place it beside a favorite sleeping or climbing spot.
14. Persian Shield
Persian shield has leaves that seem to change color while I am looking at them. In flat light, they are deep purple crossed with green veins. In angled light, the surface flashes silver and violet. The plant grows quickly in warm weather and can become taller than the delicate leaves initially suggest. One established specimen can fill the empty space beside a window without needing three smaller plants around it.
That speed also makes pruning necessary. If I let every stem run upward, the plant becomes thin at the base and heavy at the top. I cut above a node to encourage branching, then root the removed tips as insurance. Persian shield likes reliable moisture but not a permanently wet root ball. It also appreciates humidity and warmth, which is why mine often looks magnificent in late summer and less polished beside winter heating. Spider mites are its most persistent enemy indoors. I check the leaf undersides whenever the surface loses its clean metallic finish.
15. Polka Dot Plant
Polka dot plant has soft green leaves scattered with pink, white, red, or cream. The spots are uneven, and that irregularity keeps the foliage from looking printed. A small cluster can brighten the edge of a desk or fill the front of a terrarium. I often place a pink form beside a simple fern, where the calm fronds balance all those marks.
This is a plant I enjoy without expecting it to become a family heirloom. As the stems age, they stretch, flower, and lose the compact shape they had at the shop. Pinching helps, but renewal is often easier. I root several tips together and start again with a full little pot. Bright filtered light keeps the markings strong and the growth tight. Dry soil causes quick wilting, while constant saturation rots the fine roots. The plant’s relatively short indoor prime does not bother me because propagation is simple and the younger plants are the most colorful ones anyway.
16. ‘Pink Princess’ Philodendron
I understand why ‘Pink Princess’ became famous. Its dark leaves can open with flecks, brushstrokes, or wide sections of bright pink. The contrast is dramatic, especially when the stem holds several differently marked leaves at once. I do not, however, chase plants with almost entirely pink foliage. Those leaves lack enough chlorophyll to support themselves well and are often the first to brown.
Variegation is unpredictable. I cannot fertilize a plain green leaf until it turns pink, nor can I promise that the next one will look like a photograph online. What I can do is provide bright indirect light, an airy mix, and a support for the climbing stem. The plant needs enough green tissue and enough light to grow strongly, but hot direct sun easily scorches the pink sections. If a stem produces only green leaves for a long stretch, careful pruning to a better-variegated node may help, though there are no guarantees. Like other philodendrons, this plant contains irritating calcium oxalate crystals.
17. ‘Prince of Orange’ Philodendron
‘Prince of Orange’ does something different from a variegated plant. Every new leaf begins in a vivid shade of orange, then passes through copper and bronze before settling into green. Because several leaves mature at different times, a good plant holds all those stages together. It has a self-heading habit, so I get an upright mound instead of a vine searching for the nearest support.
I keep it where the emerging leaves receive bright filtered light. That is what produces the warmest new color and sturdy growth. When the room is dim, the plant slows down and spends far more time looking green. New leaves occasionally stick while unfurling, especially in very dry air. I do not tug at them; a torn orange leaf remains torn after it hardens. A little more humidity and time usually work better than my fingers. I let the upper part of the mix dry before watering and keep the crown above the soil line. This philodendron is also unsafe to chew.
18. ‘Ruby’ Rubber Plant
‘Ruby’ rubber plant has enough size to function as furniture. Its thick leaves combine green, cream, and rosy pink, with new growth often carrying the strongest blush. A red sheath protects each emerging leaf and then drops away. In a bright room, a mature plant can rise behind a chair or occupy a corner without looking wispy.
A rubber plant is sturdy, but the variegated cultivars need better light than the solid green form. I put mine close to a bright window and introduce any direct sun gradually. Pale leaf sections burn first, leaving tan scars that never turn green again. I allow the upper several inches of mix to dry, then water the entire root ball and empty the saucer. These plants do poorly in oversized pots that stay wet for weeks. They also dislike being moved every time a room is rearranged. Once I find a bright, stable position, I let the plant settle and rotate it slowly for balanced growth. Its latex sap can irritate skin and is unsafe for pets.
19. Watermelon Peperomia
Watermelon peperomia has one of the most accurate common names in the houseplant world. Each rounded leaf carries alternating silver and dark green bands resembling a watermelon rind. The leaves rise on thin reddish stems and form a tidy mound that fits easily on a shelf or narrow table. It gives me an obvious pattern without taking over the room.
The plant’s compact size sometimes persuades people to water it like a delicate seedling. I do the opposite. Its slightly fleshy leaves can store moisture, while its fine roots rot readily in heavy, wet mix. I allow a noticeable portion of the pot to dry before watering thoroughly. A shallow container with an open drainage hole suits it better than an unnecessarily deep decorative pot. Bright indirect light keeps the silver bands clear and the stems short. Watermelon peperomia is generally considered pet-friendly, making it one of my preferred patterned plants for homes where complete separation from animals is difficult.
20. Purple Shamrock
Purple shamrock looks like a small gathering of butterflies. Each leaf is divided into three triangular leaflets in shades of plum and violet. The leaves open in good light and fold downward at night, making the whole pot seem to wake and sleep. Fine stems and small pale flowers keep it airy, even when the plant is full.
I grow it in a bright position where it receives gentle morning sun. In weak light, the stems become long and lean toward the window. The plant may disappear into dormancy, which can be alarming if I am not expecting it. When foliage yellows and dies back, I reduce watering and let the underground structures rest rather than keeping the empty soil soaked. Fresh leaves usually return when I resume watering under suitable light and warmth. Purple shamrock contains soluble oxalates, so it is another plant I keep away from pets despite its delicate appearance.
Color Begins With the Window
I can buy the healthiest plant in the shop and still watch its color fade if I place it where the room looks bright to me but is dim to a leaf. Human eyes adjust remarkably well. Plants do not. Light drops quickly as I move away from a window, and a shelf six feet back may receive only a fraction of what reaches the glass. I look at the actual path of daylight through the room, including roof overhangs, trees, neighboring buildings, and seasonal changes.
Variegated plants present a second challenge. Their cream, pink, silver, or white sections contain less chlorophyll, so they often need good light but burn faster than green tissue. I use sheer curtains, move a plant a little back from harsh afternoon glass, or add a grow light when the room itself cannot provide a useful balance. The University of Minnesota’s indoor-light guidance makes a point I wish more plant tags included: surviving low light and growing attractively in low light are not the same thing.
I Water the Pot, Not the Plant’s Reputation
“Water once a week” sounds helpful until I compare a fittonia in a small clay pot with a rubber plant in glazed ceramic. One may dry in days; the other may remain damp for two weeks. Room temperature, pot size, root health, season, light, and air movement all affect how quickly moisture is used. I put a finger into the mix, lift smaller containers, and notice how the leaves behave before deciding.
When water is needed, I soak the entire root ball until excess runs from the drainage hole. Then I let it finish draining. A quick splash every morning keeps only the surface damp and can leave deeper roots dry or create a band of accumulated salts. Decorative outer pots are useful, but they can hide standing water. I remove the inner nursery pot, water it at the sink, and return it only after it has drained. That small habit has saved more plants than any bottle of tonic.
Humidity Helps, but It Cannot Repair Wet Roots
Calatheas, stromanthes, fittonias, and Persian shield generally appreciate humid air. Chinese evergreens, peperomias, philodendrons, and rubber plants are more willing to live with average household humidity. I group the needier plants where it is practical and use a humidifier during the driest part of winter. A bright bathroom can be excellent, provided the room remains warm and the plant is close enough to the window.
I do not respond to every brown edge by keeping the soil wetter. Humidity concerns the air; watering concerns the roots. A calathea can have crisp margins and rotting roots at the same time. Pebble trays look attractive, but their effect is usually modest unless evaporation is occurring directly around a small enclosed group. For fittonia, a terrarium makes a real difference. For a large stromanthe, a humidifier is more honest.
I Leave Leaf Shine on the Store Shelf
The pleasure of colorful foliage depends on being able to see it, and dust gradually flattens silver stripes, red veins, and glossy pink markings. I wipe broad leaves with a soft cloth dampened with plain water. Smaller sturdy plants can be rinsed gently at the sink. While cleaning, I support the leaf from beneath so I am not pulling against its stem.
I do not rub plants with oil, mayonnaise, milk, or commercial leaf shine. A temporary gloss is not worth leaving a sticky film that catches more dust. Hairy foliage needs an even lighter hand; I use a soft brush on purple passion plant rather than matting its violet hairs with a cloth. Cleaning is also when I turn leaves over and inspect them. That is where spider mites, thrips, scale, and mealybugs usually reveal themselves first.
A Colorful Plant Does Not Need a Colorful Pot
When the foliage already contains silver bands, pink spots, red margins, and purple undersides, I keep the container simple. Clay, cream, charcoal, weathered metal, or one quiet glaze gives the leaves room to register. A patterned pot can work, but I use it with a calm plant rather than placing it beneath a rex begonia that already looks like stained glass.
I also mix leaf shapes instead of lining up twenty different patterns. A broad ‘Ruby’ rubber plant looks stronger beside the fine trailing stems of tradescantia. A compact watermelon peperomia can sit in front without copying either shape. Plain green plants are useful here. They are not filler; they give the eye a pause and make the colored foliage more noticeable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which colorful houseplant would I give a beginner?
My first choices would be a red Chinese evergreen, watermelon peperomia, or Tradescantia zebrina. Chinese evergreen is patient about normal household humidity. Peperomia forgives a missed watering better than a fittonia. Tradescantia grows quickly and is easily renewed from cuttings when it becomes bare.
I would choose between them by light and watering habits. Someone who waters often may get along better with tradescantia than peperomia. Someone with only a moderately bright room may find Chinese evergreen more cooperative than croton.
Which plants are better for a home with pets?
Prayer plants, calatheas, stromanthes, fittonias, polka dot plants, and watermelon peperomias are commonly regarded as safer options. I still discourage pets from chewing them because any large amount of plant material can upset an animal’s stomach.
Croton, Chinese evergreen, caladium, philodendrons, rubber plants, ti plants, tradescantia, and purple shamrock should be placed where pets cannot reach them. Common names are unreliable, so I confirm the botanical name before making a decision about safety.
Why did my pink plant turn greener?
The usual reason is insufficient light. Red, pink, cream, and white markings often become less pronounced when a plant is moved too far from a window. Croton, coleus, Persian shield, variegated rubber plants, and colorful philodendrons all show this in different ways.
Some color changes are natural. ‘Prince of Orange’ leaves are supposed to mature from orange through bronze to green. A ‘Pink Princess’ produces variable leaves because its pattern is genetic, not painted to order. I look at several new leaves before deciding that something is wrong.
Why are the edges becoming brown?
There is no single answer. Dry air, hard water, fertilizer salts, direct sun, cold glass, inconsistent watering, and damaged roots can all leave brown tissue. The way the damage appears matters. Crispy outer margins suggest a different problem from soft brown areas spreading from the base of a plant in wet soil.
Before adding water, I put a finger into the mix. I also check the saucer, smell the root zone, look for pests, and consider whether the plant has recently been moved. Plants tell a story through several symptoms; one brown edge is only a sentence.
Do I need to mist the leaves?
Misting makes me feel busy, but it raises humidity for only a short time. It is useful for rinsing some sturdy foliage, yet it is not a replacement for a humidifier or terrarium. Constantly wetting delicate leaves in a cool, still room can also encourage spotting.
When a plant truly needs higher humidity, I change the environment. I place a fittonia under glass, run a humidifier near the calatheas, or move suitable plants to a bright bathroom. Those measures have a lasting effect.
Can grow lights keep foliage colorful?
A grow light can make an enormous difference for coleus, croton, variegated rubber plants, Persian shield, and colorful philodendrons during dark winters. It can also turn a shelf that was unsuitable for plants into a useful growing area.
The lamp still needs to be close enough and bright enough to matter. I follow the manufacturer’s starting distance, give the plants a nightly period of darkness, and watch for bleaching. A powerful lamp held too close can scar pale leaves just as sunlight can.
Final Thoughts
The best colorful houseplant is not necessarily the rarest one or the plant with the most pink on its newest leaf. It is the one that continues producing good foliage in the conditions I can honestly provide. A red Chinese evergreen in a steady east window will give me more pleasure than a struggling calathea placed beside a heater because I liked its photograph.
I begin with the room, then choose the plant. Strong light opens the door to croton, coleus, Persian shield, and variegated rubber plants. Humid filtered light favors calathea, stromanthe, and fittonia. A smaller bright shelf may be exactly right for watermelon peperomia or a rex begonia. Once that match is made, the color stops feeling temporary. It becomes part of the room—pink veins opening in the morning, silver leaves trailing from a shelf, and copper new growth slowly turning green as the weeks pass.